Honoring 50 Years Of Scientific Research In The Galapagos With A Limited Edition Aquatimer
IWC’s partnership with the Charles Darwin Foundation permeates the new Aquatimer collection, but there is one watch in particular that stands out as benefiting the Foundation. The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “50 Years Science for Galapagos” honors the 50th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Foundation and celebrates all the work they have been doing.
The Edition 50 Years Science (reference 3795, if you’re keeping track) starts with a 44mm stainless steel case in the new Aquatimer profile. This includes the architectural lugs and the grooved Safe Dive bezel, which rotates both directions but only turns the internal rotating bezel when turned counter-clockwise and does not turn it at all under water. The clutch mechanism is housed in the protrusion on the left side of the case.
What sets the Edition 50 Years Science apart is the matte black vulcanized rubber coating on the case and chronograph pushers as well as the special lume color on the dial. The hour batons, hands, and bezel markings are all a rich blue meant to mimic the blue of the famous blue-footed booby, endemic to the Galapagos Islands. You can see here how closely the color actually matches:
Inside the Edition 50 Years Science is an in-house caliber 89365, a movement in the caliber 89000 family but without an hours counter for the chronograph. You do get a 60-minute counter at 12 o’clock and the chronograph is a flyback, plus it can be used underwater. The power reserve is 68 hours and the watch is automatically winding.
The case is thick at 17mm, but it lends this watch a robust tool-watch feel. It wears well on the black rubber strap and if you turn the watch over you’ll find a special caseback engraving to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Foundation.
This is a limited edition of only 500 pieces with proceeds benefiting the Charles Darwin Foundation. You can find more details here.
Exploring The Galapagos Islands With The New Aquatimers
IWC has had a long standing partnership with the Charles Darwin Foundation, based in the Galapagos Islands, but the latest collection of Aquatimers expanding this partnership with three special watches. We spent a few days last week exploring the Galapagos with IWC and of course had the opportunity to visit the Charles Darwin Foundation and to wear the new Aquatimers in their natural habitat.
The first watch is the most traditional of the bunch. The Edition Galapagos Islands is already a mainstay in the Aquatimer collection, and this new execution is really exciting. The steel case is coated in matte black rubber, giving it a really tactile quality and there are all the new features including the Safe Dive Bezel too. On the caseback is the iconic marine iguana (of which we saw more than a few).
Next is the Edition 50 Years Of Science For Galapagos,” which starts much the same as the Edition Galapagos Islands with the black rubber-coated case and clean dial. But, the dial here is adorned with blue luminous markings that give it a softer overall feel. The caseback has a special decoration to celebrate the Charles Darwin Foundation’s 50th anniversary, a milestone for scientific research in the Galapagos.
The last watch is the Edition Expedition Charles Darwin, the first even bronze watch from IWC. The material was chosen because it was heavily used in 19th-century shipbuilding and was a key part of The Beagle, the ship on which Darwin explored the islands. The material takes on a great patina, and you can already see it developing after two days of diving and hiking. Really a beautiful material and one that tells a story over time.
We will of course have more for you from this amazing journey in the coming weeks, here and on HODINKEE.
Meet Carmelo Anthony: NBA Superstar of the New York Knicks and Film Buff
a modern Renaissance Man, Carmelo Anthony’s knowledge and expertise spans far
beyond the basketball court. Whether it’s his philanthropic work with The Carmelo Anthony Foundation or his editorial contributions to Haute Time,
Carmelo embodies the spirit of a true culture aficionado. Obviously, this
includes his love of cinema.
a member of the New York Knicks, Carmelo understands the importance of camaraderie
and the bonds of unbreakable friendship. Knowing this, it’s not a surprise that
his favorite film is “Once Upon a Time in America”, starring Robert De Niro,
James Woods and Joe Pesci and directed by Sergio Leone.
his favorite movie hails from 1984, Carmelo lives in the present when it comes
to his favorite directors. “I like to support the up-and-comers, and there isn’t
a shortage of talented young directors coming out of New York,” said Carmelo.
someone who is no stranger to wearing IWC on the red carpet, Carmelo is
especially excited to see the brand represented on the hit series “House of
Cards”, starring IWC Friend of the Brand Kevin Spacey.
Thursday, April 17, tune into www.iwc.com/tribeca for live Instagram photos and
tweets from IWC’s “For the Love of Cinema” dinner red carpet, featuring both
celebrities and IWC timepieces.
You can see immediately that the new chronograph carries through a number of traits from the other two Le Petit Prince watches. Most notably is the blue sunburst dial, which looks incredible in person. You can see some hands-on photos with the Mark XVII here to full appreciate the dial color. The hands and markers also have that longer, sleeker form with pointed tips.
The specs on this watch are otherwise like those of the standard ref. 3777 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph. The steel case is 43mm and the movement is the IWC caliber 79320. This has a running seconds register at 9 o’clock, a 30 minutes counter at 12 o’clock, and a 12 hour counter at 6 o’clock. There are also bright white wheels visible at 3 o’clock displaying the day of the week and the date – the latter in the “altimeter” style of the new Pilot’s range.
Unlike the other Le Petit Prince watches, this watch is not a limited edition, meaning more collectors will have a chance to get their hands on one. The Mark XVII was limited to only 1,000 pieces and the perpetual calendar to only 270.
Meet Beth Janson: Tribeca Film Institute Executive Director and IWC Filmmaker Award Jury Member
Beth Janson is the Executive Director of the Tribeca Film Institute® and sits on the jury for the IWC Filmmaker Award. Beth joined Tribeca in 2004 after an impressive career in the film industry, including work with the Newport International Film Festival and HBO Documentary Films/Cinemax Reel Life.
What is the mission of the Tribeca Film Institute?
The mission of TFI is to champion storytellers to be catalysts for change in their communities and around the world. We provide filmmakers and media artists with more than $2 million each year in funding in addition to professional support and mentoring, and run film-based educational programming that reaches more than 30,000 public school students each year. We are a year-round nonprofit arts organization founded by Robert De Niro, Jane Rosenthal, and Craig Hatkoff in the wake of September 11, 2001.
Is there a filmmaker that inspires you? Right now, I am probably most inspired by One9 and Erik Parker. Their film, Time is Illmatic, which is opening this year’s Tribeca Film Festival® and which TFI funded, took years to make, and was a labor of love. It tells the very human story of wanting great things for our children, and profiles one man’s successful journey from the most forgotten parts of our society, to one of the most revered.
What is your advice to young people looking to get into filmmaking? Be curious. Intellectual curiosity is paramount to being a successful filmmaker. Channel yours and the rest will fall into place.
From your perspective, how has IWC’s partnership with the Tribeca Film Institute had a positive impact on the Institute’s students and alumni? While the IWC Filmmaker Award is designed to be awarded to a promising professional filmmaker, we do have a robust Education department at TFI which oftentimes facilitates teaching about the themes of our professional filmmakers’ works through study guides custom created for those films. As our partnership with IWC continues, we could think about including some of the IWC Filmmaker Award winners’ films in our educational programming in this capacity.
Watchmaking and filmmaking share many similarities – how do you think these two crafts complement one another? Both watchmaking and filmmaking require precision, patience and perseverance to achieve a finished product. In each trade, the final output is a product of a lot of hard work and an extreme attention to detail.
What are you most looking forward to when it comes to IWC’s continued support of the Tribeca Film Institute? IWC’s partnership with TFI has allowed one talented and promising filmmaker to work on his project without the specter of constantly having to seek funding hanging over him, and has provided him with invaluable guidance and support from our team at every step of their creative process. We are grateful to IWC for helping us to now extend that to a second filmmaker and hope to continue our partnership to afford many more filmmakers such opportunity.
To stay abreast of news on the partnership between IWC and TFI, please visit www.iwc.com/tribeca.
Meet Jeff Malmberg: Filmmaker and 2013 IWC Schaffhausen Filmmaker Award Winner at the Tribeca Film Festival
In 2013, filmmaker Jeff Malmberg was the first ever winner of the IWC Schaffhausen Filmmaker Award at the Tribeca Film Festival. Jeff has been busy at work editing his latest project over the past several months, but he took the time to catch up with IWC to look back on the past year. Tellus a little about the project you’re currently working on?
For the last few years I’ve been working on a documentary film set in rural Italy called “Teatro”. It tells the story of a small Italian village that turns their lives into a play in order to confront their issues, unite their town, and preserve their culture. My wife and filmmaking partner Chris Shellen and I spent six months living with the people of the town and shooting every day. We learned Italian for the project and currently we’re in the middle of editing. How has the IWC Schaffhausen Filmmaker Award helped your film
The award has helped me to continue working on my second film,
“Teatro”. Just recently I traveled to Italy to show rough cut scenes to the
subjects in the film and have a conversation with them about the finished
project. I consider this an essential part of the editing process in
documentary and it wouldn’t have been possible without the award from IWC.
Where do you find inspiration for your filmmaking?
One of the great things about filmmaking is you can be inspired
by all the art around you – not just specifically other films. It’s probably no
accident that in the one film I’ve made and the other one I’m currently making
that one is about a photographer and the other is about a play. Lately I’ve
been thinking a lot about trying to replicate the experience of reading a
novel. How you get put inside a character’s head and then you’re led through a
your ultimate filmmaking dream?
What I’d like to do is create a body of work that allows me to
keep telling stories the way I feel they should be told. I want to keep working
with my wife on projects that excite us and ultimately I want to teach our
child how to make films.
What advice would you give to current Tribeca Film Institute students who are looking to kick off their career?
To me it all comes down to the subject you choose. Particularly in documentary filmmaking, it’s important to pick a subject that will take you to a place that you don’t know the depths of – something that you want to explore and spend years trying to understand. To me the best films are really archives of the filmmaker’s quest to understand something. And then of course shaping it into something where the audience gets to go on that journey too.
are some of the biggest challenges new filmmakers are facing today?
One of the issues with filmmaking is the incredible amount of
time it takes. Not only the time to shoot the material but the time to actually
sit down and find both the story and the right way to tell that story. So I’m really
grateful for the IWC award that gives filmmakers the time they need to tell
The weather is finally starting to warm up here in New York (a little bit at least) and as we swap sweaters for polo shirts, we’ll be looking for some new watches to wear as well. As we start to look forward to sunny vacations, nothing seems more appropriate than a sturdy dive watch that can go anywhere. Enter the new Aquatimer Automatic.
While many of the new Aquatimers come in larger case diameters, the basic Aquatimer Automatic measures 42mm across, making it extremely versatile. Alright, maybe it’s not quite the right fit with a suit at the office, but that’s not what we’re talking about here. The watch feels robust on the wrist and is definitely not one to be treated gingerly. You can really live in this watch and not worry about it one bit.
Although its the smallest and most basic member of the new Aquatimer collection, it does include all the features of the new family. This includes the SafeDive bezel system, which uses the external rotating bezel to turn the internal timing bezel. It turns in 1-minute increments for precise dive timing. There’s also the quick-change bracelet system, which lets you swap the heavy-duty bracelet for the lighter rubber strap without using any tools. For this time of year, the bracelet is perfect in most situations.
One of our favorite things about the new Aquatimer Automatic is the dial/bezel treatment. Both color options, black and silver-coated, look extremely high-quality with the printing crisp and clean and enough background texture to add interest. The Super-Luminova is every bit as bright as what you’d expect from a hardcore dive watch.
You can learn more about the Aquatimer Automatic here.
It’s no secret that the Portuguese line has a cult following, and for good reason. The classic design dates back to the 1930s, when it was first conceived for a pair of Portuguese businessmen looking for a wristwatch that could measure up against a marine chronometer. This first watch came in at a massive-for-the-time 43mm and was a pocketwatch movement in a special case.
The Portuguese has come a long way since 1939, but has always maintained the clean look and great performance of the original. The latest Portuguese is the new Chronograph Classic, which updates the looks of the Portuguese Chronograph and adds an in-house movement to the mix.
This movement, the caliber 89361 uses the new style of hour and minute totalizers, nesting the two at 12 o’clock. This means you can read elapsed time like you would read the time – it’s an intuitive display and one that feels both fresh and instinctive at the same time. This movement also features a date window at 3 o’clock, crisp pusher action, and a 68-hour power reserve powered by the large rotor.
The case is 42mm, making it a little more than a millimeter larger than the existing Portuguese Chronograph (ref. 3714). It’s also a little thicker with a dramatically domed crystal that gives it a little bit of a vintage feel. The dial is more technical and less classic looking (despite the name), but it keeps the same numerals and hands that we’re used to seeing from a Portuguese.
Overall, the Portuguese Chronograph Classic is a high-performing in-house chronograph that stacks up against the best out there. It carries the history of the Portuguese along with a very modern movement.
This may be the year of Aquatimer, but last year’s Ingenieur collection is still making waves. In particular, with the Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic is a bold watch that we haven’t explored here yet. And with winter still hanging around but spring on the horizon, this is a watch that could take you through the transition perfectly.
The Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic (Ref. 3225) takes the automotive styling of the 2013 Ingenieur collection and packs it into a technologically advanced 46mm ceramic case. IWC was one of the earliest watch brands to use ceramic in its cases, all the way back in 1986. This isn’t IWC following a trend, but rather referencing its own history in a new way. The ceramic used here is zirconium oxide, a stronger ceramic that can take a high level of polishing and finishing.
The case is a large 46mm and features robust crown guards on the right side of the case, really emphasizing the size. The rounded bezel has the five automotive-inspired spline screws you’ll find on the other Ingenieurs and the inner flange is marked in 5-minute increments.
While the case is always black (as you’d expect from the “Black Series”), there are both black and brown dial options. The black is very slick and understated, but the brown is interesting and unexpected. The brown dial is complemented by rich yellow luminous material that reminds us of well-patinated Tritium. Between the size and clarity of the dial, this is an extremely easy watch to read. A combination rubber/leather strap is comfortable while maintaining a slightly dressier look than a plain rubber strap.
Inside the AMG Black Series Ceramic is the in-house caliber 80110, which is a simple time and date movement. That said, this movement has an integrated shock-absorption system and the efficient Pellaton winding system that IWC’s movements are known for. The rotor has been appropriately blacked out, a really nice detail that completes the tactical look.
You can learn more about the AMG Black Series Ceramic here.
HODINKEE's Pick: The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition "Expedition Charles Darwin"
Live from SIHH 2014 we gave you a first look at the entire new Aquatimer collection, including everything from the basic automatic to the digital perpetual calendar. Now we’ve had some time to dig a little deeper and we’d like to give you a closer look at one of our favorite Aquatimer watch, the Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin.”
The guts of the Expedition Charles Darwin are mostly the same as those of the three other special edition chronographs in the collection. The in-house calibre 89365 movement combines an automatic winding system with a 68-hour power reserve and a two-register chronograph. The top register displays the running seconds while the lower register counts up to 60 minutes of elapsed time. The shapes of the hands differ between the two functions, making it easy to differentiate the chronograph from the main time keeping parts of the watch.
What’s most special about the Expedition Charles Darwin is the case. This is the first time IWC has made a watch with a bronze case, chosen here for its connection with 19th century shipbuilding – bronze was a crucial component in ships such as Darwin’s HMS Beagle. It’s 44mm across and the bronze makes the case extremely robust and resistant to corrosion. That said, it will develop a unique patina as the metal is exposed to the elements.
The little details are executed really well here. The rubber strap can be swapped out through the quick-change system, the luminescent material on the hands and markers matches the bronze case, and the pushers and crown have a nice rubber coating. The caseback features a portrait of Charles Darwin too.
Overall, the Expedition Charles Darwin brings something new to the Aquatimer collection without going overboard, keeping the watch extremely wearable. Over time the patina will become personal, meaning it only gets better with age.
all know that a bouquet of roses and a box of chocolates are the standard,
go-to gift for Valentine’s Day. But what happens when a couple can be described
as IWC watch enthusiasts? Forget the flowers and candies – for one couple in
New York City, Valentine’s Day shopping (really any shopping when gifts are involved) simply involves a trip to the
IWC Schaffhausen boutique on Madison Avenue.
Brooklyn-based Peter and Elyssa. Both share a passion for the craftsmanship
imparted on IWC watches and know that nothing says “I love you” quite like
bringing home that black IWC box.
As a couple, how do you share your passion
appreciators and admirers of elegant, classic design, we try to surround
ourselves with this concept in every facet of our lives. IWC obviously fits the
bill on this front. From a professional perspective, we are both immersed in culture
and design, and we can appreciate the value of the stories that surround each
watch collection from IWC.
a more practical point of view, both of us are always running late, so it helps
that we know that the other one can at least attempt to stay on schedule thanks
What first drew you both to the IWC brand? Peter:
My brother first introduced me to IWC many years ago when he purchased a Big Pilot’s Watch,and I’ve been infatuated ever since. I find that
each IWC timepiece is unique and makes for a great conversation starter,
especially when the other person knows a thing or two about watches. More
importantly, everyone seems to have an emotional tie to their IWC – why they
bought it, who gave it to them, and so on. It’s a very personal item to
everyone I’ve met.
Peter is responsible for my IWC infatuation. When we started dating, he was
sporting the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Edition
“Laureus Sport for Good Foundation”piece, and it’s one of the first things I noticed literally on our first date – you can’t
miss that blue dial. A fine timepiece really helps pull a look together from a
fashion perspective, and I think this applies to my perception of Peter and for
watches in general.
Elyssa, although positioned as “Engineered
for Men,” what attracts you to IWC watches? I
love when I go into an important meeting or dinner and a man notices my watch.
It gives me a little edge, something different. It’s my way of saying
“Don’t mess with me! I know my stuff!” For those days, I definitely pull
out my Pilot’s Watch Mark XV11. But if I’m
heading to a nice dinner or the ballet, you’ll find my Portofino Automaticon my wrist – I have the one with the Milanese Mesh Bracelet,
which I find to be very elegant.
How do you both like to style your IWC
My Portuguese Automaticdoesn’t
need any help in the styling department. I wear it with everything. My new Portuguese Minute Repeater is something I plan on breaking out
for special occasions, with Valentine’s Day being its first official unveiling.
Style for me is about the unique statement that an outfit or accessory can make.
It’s about how you mix up different pieces. A timeless watch is the punctuation
mark on a great outfit. It tells people right away that you appreciate
the details. So in a nutshell, you
can say that my IWC strap collection is a little insane. It’s all about color.
Why do you think an IWC watch makes a great
gift for Valentine’s Day? Peter:
Gifting an IWC shows you have a deeper understanding and appreciation for
watches beyond what’s mainstream. It shows you have taste. In our case, I have the
added bonus of knowing that Elyssa loves the brand.
I would respond with “Who wouldn’t
think one of these watches would make a great gift?” Forget Valentine’s Day – I
encourage Peter to buy me one just because it’s Tuesday.
Friday is a pretty big date – Valentine’s Day. So, to get ready, we’re going to take a last minute look at the Portofino Hand-Wound Big Date. Whether you need the complication to make sure you don’t miss the holiday or you just like it, the Big Date is a modern classic in the making.
Sure, the Portofino Big Date debuted less than a year ago at Watches&Wonders in Hong Kong, but it already feels like a core part of the Portofino collection. It combines the simple case shape with gently curved lugs, classic dial with baton markers, and beautiful leaf shaped hands that tie the entire family together.
It is though the most complicated member of the Portofino family. At 12 o’clock, just below the lone Roman numeral, is the big date complication, which uses two disks to display the two numerals. To the left, just around 9 o’clock is the power reserve indicator for the hand-wound 8-day movement. Down at 6 o’clcok a large sub-seconds register finishes things off. Because of the large dial in the 45mm case, none of this looks crowded or cluttered.
Turning the case over, you’ll find the in-house calibre 59230 movement. The movement is hand-wound, meaning there is no rotor to get in the way of admiring the rest of the mechanics. The large bridges are just short of looking austere, giving little looks at components like the large barrel at 12 o’clock and the balance down at 5 o’clock. When you pull the crown, you’ll see the balance stop along with the small seconds hand on the dial.
Sure, the 45mm size is substantially larger than what you might expect from a relatively dressy watch like the Portofino Big Date, but it does make the watch seem a little more casual. Santoni alligator straps finish off both the red gold and white gold versions of the Big Date, making it perfect for, well, that big date.
Getting In The Mood With The IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar
Alright, Valentine’s Day is coming up, and fast. We’ve got just over a week until the roses, dinners, and of course gifts, so it seems like an appropriate time to look at a romantic complication – the perpetual calendar.
Conceptually, the perpetual calendar is a beautiful complication. It allows us to track the changes in time from the second to the day and even to multi-year cycles. It’s a mechanical timekeeper that never needs adjusting and follows all the rhythms of our lives. But, enough pontificating here, let’s look at a watch.
The Portuguese Perpetual Calendar takes one of IWC’s most classic designs (going back to the early 20th Century) and updates it to fit all the extra information. Up top is the dual moonphase (for both hemispheres), to the right you have the date and 7-day power reserve, to the left there is the running seconds inside the day of the week, and finally down at 6 o’clock there are the month and year indicators. That’s quite a lot going on, but the Portuguese is still clear and easy to read in both dial configurations.
That brings us to the two different models – there is a white gold with a midnight blue dial and a red gold with a black dial. The white and blue has an extremely modern look, especially with that dual moonphase, but for Valentine’s Day the red gold seems more appropriate.
The one downside to receiving a perpetual for Valentine’s Day is that you’ll never have an excuse for missing the holiday again. Either would make a pretty spectacular gift for that special somebody. Especially if that somebody is you.
Last night was IWC’s annual dinner at SIHH, and it was nothing short of spectacular. To celebrate the launch of the 2014 Aquatimer collection, IWC hosted more than 800 guests in Geneva for the Inside The Wave gala, which included dinner, dancing, and live performances by Roger Hodgson of Supertramp and Cirque du Soleil.
Entering the party, you would never know that you were at an exhibition hall in Geneva. Walking past the red carpet (which was traversed by the likes of Kevin Spacy, Marc Forster, Luis Figo, Karolina Kurkova, Adriana Lima, and Susan Sarandon, no less) guests descended “below water” to enjoy cocktails and a small preview of the Cirque du Soleil performance to come.
Later, IWC CEO Georges Kern welcomed guests to the festivities. Kern introduced the new Aquatimer watches and explained IWC’s partnership with the Charles Darwin Foundation. “As a successful company, we take our social responsibilities very seriously,” said Kern. That yesterday was also the 50th anniversary of the Foundation’s Galapagos Research Station was a happy coincidence.
While guests enjoyed dinner, the performance began. Friend of the brand Ewan McGregor narrated a special performance, designed by Cirque du Soleil specially for the occasion. It was a story about fleeting time, taking the characters from the exhibition hall to the Galapagos and back, all punctuated by Roger Hodgson and his amazing band. The show ended with the crowd on their feet singing along to “It’s Raining Again” and celebrating with the performers. Finally DJ Jack E from Saint-Tropez kept the party going late into the night.
It was a celebration that will be remembered by all of the guests and a fitting way to launch the new Aquatimer collection.
Stepping into the IWC booth from the elegant beige hallways of SIHH is nothing short of exhilarating. While the world outside is going about business as usual, it’s all about Aquatimer once you cross that threshold.
At the center of the experience is the IWC bar, serving coffee, cocktails, and even some seafood snacks to guests throughout the day. Whether you’re waiting to get a look at the new Aquatimers or just want a place to sit and catch up with those friends you only see at SIHH, there is a round white bar and a handful of banquets in which to relax. Floating up from the bar is a massive column of illuminated bubble that light up the entire booth.
Curving up around the bar area is a backdrop that creates the illusion of the booth being half above and half below water. If the bar is at the bottom of the sea, complete with sharks looming overhead, the curved walkway that dips behind the backdrop takes you above the waves. Here you can get a serious history lesson in the Aquatimer, with models from different decades sitting side by side, illustrating the evolution of IWC’s dive watches over the years. This is extremely valuable in providing context to the new collection and you can see little bits of the new watches in these vintage examples.
Finally, above the bar is a series of screens showing videos from the Galapagos. The partnership with the Charles Darwin Foundation (and the special editions to go along with the partnership) is a big part of Aquatimer and these videos do a great job illustrating what makes the Galapagos Islands such a unique place.
Meet The New Aquatimer Collection, Live From SIHH 2014
Well, SIHH 2014 has arrived, and with it comes a new collection of Aquatimers from IWC. Today we got our first hands-on look at the collection and, while we’ll save the in-depth looks for later, we wanted to give you an overview of the 2014 Aquatimers that will be showing up over the coming months.
First off, there is the the foundations of the collection, the Aquatimer Automatic and the Aquatimer Chronograph. The Automatic is the smallest of the bunch, coming in at 42mm. It has the IWC Safe Dive System bezel that you’ll find across the range, a technology that combines the look of an inner rotating bezel with the functionality of an external bezel. Bright Superluminova and a bold dial make it a great all-purpose dive watch. The chronograph is housed in a slightly larger 44mm case and has the additional functionality while maintaining the collection aesthetic.
In addition to these new basics, there are a number of special edition chronographs, all focused around the Galapagos Islands and Jacques Cousteau. First is the update to the well-known Edition Galapagos Islands chronograph. The new rendition still has the black rubber-coated case with yellow and white dial accents, and joining it in the collection is the Edition 50 Years Of Science for Galapagos, which takes the same case and adds a rich blue Superluminova treatment for the dial and inner bezel. Both watches feature the in-house calibre 89365 chronograph movement.
On top of this is one of our favorites from the collection, the Edition Expedition Charles Darwin, which starts with a 44mm bronze case (a first for IWC). The case is just incredible in the metal, and the bronze pays tribute to the 19th century shipbuilding that enabled historic voyages like that of The HMS Beagle.
The last of the chronographs is the Edition Jacques-Yves Cousteau, which has an amazing blue dial that you could just stare at for ages. This is the brightest of the new Aquatimers, but manages to remain relatively understated anyway.
The deepest diver of the bunch is the Aquatimer Automatic 2000, inspired by the Ocean 2000 from 1982 (designed by F.A. Porsche, no less). The 46mm titanium case and bezel are very lightweight, but the watch is resistant to 200 bar (about 2000m). Even if you’re not going to be pushing this watch to its limits, it’s a handsome choice.
The Deep Three continues the Aquatimer’s line of mechanical depth gauges. This is the third generation of the concept, and this time is crafted in lightweight titanium with both max depth and current depth indicators integrated into the dial. While the Automatic 2000 can go the deepest, the Deep Three provides the most real-time feedback for the serious diver.
Finally, there is the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, utilizing a complication not typically associated with dive watches. The digital perpetual calendar display switches instantaneously and is partially revealed through the perforated subdials. At 49mm, in rose gold and rubber-coated titanium, this is the second largest watch in IWC’s history and not one for the faint of heart.
We’ll have more for you on these new Aquatimers over the coming weeks and you can visit IWC for more details.
Happy New (Aquatimer) Year With The New IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000
Each year, IWC revamps a different family of watches. This year we get a whole stable of new Aquatimers and today we’ve got a first look at one of the special editions, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000.
The second most practically-minded Aquatimer, the Automatic 2000, is water resistant to 200 bars, which is approximately 2.000 meters deep depending on the salinity of the water. The watch has an uncluttered dial that tells the time with a central seconds hand and a small date window at 3 o’clock.
The big new innovation with the 2014 Aquatimer collection is the IWC SafeDive system, which uses an external bezel to move an internal timing ring. Of course the internal ring only moves unidirectionally, so you never have to worry about bumping it in the wrong direction. The external bezel has no markings but advances the internal ring in one-minute increments.
The 45mm titanium case is lightweight and designed to be a real tool on the hefty rubber strap. The bright green luminous hands and markers stand out nicely against the textured black dial. The design is inspired by the 1982 IWC Ocean 2000 dive watch, designed by none other than F.A. Porsche himself. The similarities are most noticeable in the shapes of the bezel and the hour markers.
Finally, the new Aquatimer collection adds in-house movements to many models that previously did not have them. The Automatic 2000 for example houses the caliber 80110 – though this movement is still hidden under the solid caseback, which is used here for utilitarian purposes.
We’ll be showing you all the new Aquatimers over the coming weeks and while they all share certain key features, there are a lot of interesting variations to come.
The minute repeater is a complication that offers a glimpse into history. Before electric light, seeing at night was an ordeal. It involved lighting a candle or gas lamp and there was not yet luminous paint for use on clocks and wristwatches. So, the minute repeater was invented as a way for a watch owner to tell time in the dark. Waking up in the middle of the night, one simply pulled the slide and listened for the hours, quarter hours, and minutes.
That these mechanisms require a high degree of skill to craft only adds to the appeal. The Portuguese Minute Repeater is a classic execution of the complication that balances the styling and size of a modern watch with a very traditional movement. From the front, the reference 5449 looks simple enough. A 44mm diameter case in either platinum or red gold holds a clean dial with sub-seconds and the signature Portuguese arabic numerals. Only the slide on the caseband hints at what is behind.
The Portuguese Minute Repeater uses the in-house calibre 98950, which is hand-wound, has a 46 hour power reserve, and hacking seconds. The balance has a long fine adjustment arm that looks quite dramatic in contrast to the robust three-quarter plate construction of the calibre. In classic German and Swiss-German style, the hammers are not visible through the caseback.
Only 500 pieces will be made in each of the two metals and you can learn more about the Portuguese Minute Repeater here.