This may be the year of Aquatimer, but last year’s Ingenieur collection is still making waves. In particular, with the Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic is a bold watch that we haven’t explored here yet. And with winter still hanging around but spring on the horizon, this is a watch that could take you through the transition perfectly.
The Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Series Ceramic (Ref. 3225) takes the automotive styling of the 2013 Ingenieur collection and packs it into a technologically advanced 46mm ceramic case. IWC was one of the earliest watch brands to use ceramic in its cases, all the way back in 1986. This isn’t IWC following a trend, but rather referencing its own history in a new way. The ceramic used here is zirconium oxide, a stronger ceramic that can take a high level of polishing and finishing.
The case is a large 46mm and features robust crown guards on the right side of the case, really emphasizing the size. The rounded bezel has the five automotive-inspired spline screws you’ll find on the other Ingenieurs and the inner flange is marked in 5-minute increments.
While the case is always black (as you’d expect from the “Black Series”), there are both black and brown dial options. The black is very slick and understated, but the brown is interesting and unexpected. The brown dial is complemented by rich yellow luminous material that reminds us of well-patinated Tritium. Between the size and clarity of the dial, this is an extremely easy watch to read. A combination rubber/leather strap is comfortable while maintaining a slightly dressier look than a plain rubber strap.
Inside the AMG Black Series Ceramic is the in-house caliber 80110, which is a simple time and date movement. That said, this movement has an integrated shock-absorption system and the efficient Pellaton winding system that IWC’s movements are known for. The rotor has been appropriately blacked out, a really nice detail that completes the tactical look.
You can learn more about the AMG Black Series Ceramic here.
-HODINKEE for IWC Schaffhausen
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#WednesdayWatchRiddle: Do you know in which year this #IWC Pilot’s Watch Chrono-Automatic Edition Laureus Sport for Good Foundation had its debut? #IWCLaureus
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#WednesdayWatchRiddle: What complication switches the date directly from February 28th to March 1st?
Live from SIHH 2014 we gave you a first look at the entire new Aquatimer collection, including everything from the basic automatic to the digital perpetual calendar. Now we’ve had some time to dig a little deeper and we’d like to give you a closer look at one of our favorite Aquatimer watch, the Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin.”
The guts of the Expedition Charles Darwin are mostly the same as those of the three other special edition chronographs in the collection. The in-house calibre 89365 movement combines an automatic winding system with a 68-hour power reserve and a two-register chronograph. The top register displays the running seconds while the lower register counts up to 60 minutes of elapsed time. The shapes of the hands differ between the two functions, making it easy to differentiate the chronograph from the main time keeping parts of the watch.
What’s most special about the Expedition Charles Darwin is the case. This is the first time IWC has made a watch with a bronze case, chosen here for its connection with 19th century shipbuilding – bronze was a crucial component in ships such as Darwin’s HMS Beagle. It’s 44mm across and the bronze makes the case extremely robust and resistant to corrosion. That said, it will develop a unique patina as the metal is exposed to the elements.
The little details are executed really well here. The rubber strap can be swapped out through the quick-change system, the luminescent material on the hands and markers matches the bronze case, and the pushers and crown have a nice rubber coating. The caseback features a portrait of Charles Darwin too.
Overall, the Expedition Charles Darwin brings something new to the Aquatimer collection without going overboard, keeping the watch extremely wearable. Over time the patina will become personal, meaning it only gets better with age.
-HODINKEE for IWC Schaffhausen
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#WednesdayWatchRiddle: There is a 98 calibre in the #IWC Portuguese Hand-Wound. When was this calibre manufactured?
Happy #ValentinesDay from @IWCwatches
We all know that a bouquet of roses and a box of chocolates are the standard, go-to gift for Valentine’s Day. But what happens when a couple can be described as IWC watch enthusiasts? Forget the flowers and candies – for one couple in New York City, Valentine’s Day shopping (really any shopping when gifts are involved) simply involves a trip to the IWC Schaffhausen boutique on Madison Avenue.
As a couple, how do you share your passion for watches?
Elyssa, although positioned as “Engineered for Men,” what attracts you to IWC watches?
Why do you think an IWC watch makes a great gift for Valentine’s Day?